京都蔵KYOTOKURA
Gold chrysanthemum crest in a silver hexagon on vermillion obi silk

生地

Fabric

帯

Obi types

There are lots of types of obis, changing with time to be lighter and easier to wear.

We tend to focus on older rather then newer, due to the fabric, but we often have a selection just because it was special.

Maru obi vintage Japanese silk

丸帯

Maru obi

The most formal obi. Patterned on both sides, often heavy with gold and silver thread. A single maru obi can yield several clutches because there is so much fabric.

Fukuro obi vintage Japanese silk

袋帯

Fukuro obi

A formal obi, patterned on one side. Seasonal flowers, marumon, and gold thread are common. The unpatterned reverse is often used for linings or another purse style, depending.

Nagoya obi vintage Japanese silk

名古屋帯

Nagoya obi

Lighter, partly pre-folded, and made for daily wear. Single designs are more common.

文様

Fabric- patterns and meaning

This is a sort of inventory and education. If you see a fabric you'd like just let us know and we can see what we have.

Kiku — chrysanthemum

Kiku — chrysanthemum

Longevity, the imperial crest, autumn. Often found on formal kimonos and obis.

Ume — plum blossom

Ume — plum blossom

Resilience. .

Kacho-ga — birds and flowers

Kacho-ga — birds and flowers

A painting tradition on silk.

Kikkō — hexagons

Kikkō — hexagons

The tortoise’s shell. A pattern without end; longevity, armor, ceremony.

Karakusa — scrolling vines

Karakusa — scrolling vines

Continuity

Utsuwa — vessels

Utsuwa — vessels

Tea bowls and jars woven into the silk.

絹

Silk types- obi

Nishijin-ori, rinzu, shioze, and so much more. Who knew it could be woven so many ways?

Shioze vintage Japanese silk texture

塩瀬

Shioze

A dense, ribbed silk used for many Nagoya obis. Lighter as it is often just one layer.

Rinzu vintage Japanese silk texture

綸子

Rinzu

The design is woven, not printed, and appears as a change in sheen. We have lots of this because I love it.

Nishijin-ori vintage Japanese silk texture

西陣織

Nishijin-ori

Kyoto’s tapestry weave. Most of our obi clutches are made from it.

Embroidered gold phoenix on vintage cream kimono silk

見極め

How to identify quality vintage silk

  1. 1. Even light

    Hold the cloth to the light. Quality silk shows a consistent sheen, not patchy dullness.

  2. 2. Sound weft

    Does it hold it's shape?

  3. 3. Thread, not print

    We start with a quality weave. After that we can see if the pattern is woven, or painted or printed. Generally, a printed pattern is not for us.

  4. 4. Honest smell

    Cedar and time are welcome. Mold is not. We air everything store it in a way that preserves it until we are ready to use it, like it was before we got it.

絹

Silk types kimono

Lighter and softer- rinzu, ro, chirimen, tsumugi, meisen, and so many more. Each type feels different and even each individual fabric.

Folded vintage orange obi with gold hexagonal brocade
Rinzu-The design is woven, not printed, and appears as a change in sheen. We have lots of this because I love it.
Cream vintage obi with gold floral roundels and crescent bands
Ro-soft with a light feel. Lines are woven into the fabric at result intervals.
Champagne silk obi with a quiet geometric lattice
Chirimen- a heavy textured crepe with a bumpy texture.
Close-up of a silver-outlined floral roundel on cream obi silk
Tsumugi- rustic, durable and highly prized. Made from handspun threads it has a slub texture.
Charcoal rinzu damask with a tonal cloud motif
Meisen- a more casual silk with a bold stenciling technique (kasuri)
Burnt-orange obi silk with silver trailing leaves
Habutai- lightweght, smooth and glossy. Often the upper lining.
Vintage silk panels hanging at a temple market
Fuji- smooth matte finish made with short fibers. We have one and it is our only washable silk.

After deconstruction, the silk is made into a handcrafted kimono bag or obi clutch. Finished pieces seen on Etsy.